Driving In Pai (Sorry Mum and Dad)
“Don’t worry, Mum! Of course I won’t get on a scooter!”
Those famous last words run through my mind as green hills and rice paddies fly past in a technicolour blur, wind blowing through my hair and pushing my too-loose helmet back towards the nape of my neck. I’m not a rule-breaker and a rebel is definitely one of the last words I’d use to describe myself. But less than 2 weeks into my backpacking trip and my first promise has already been broken as, you guessed it, I find myself at the helm of my own gleaming indigo-blue scooter, the numbers “007” emblazoned on the front. Maybe not Bond’s typical mode of transport, but I feel pretty badass. And at least I’m wearing a helmet, right? It’s what Bond would want.
I’m in north Thailand, settled into the backpacker haven of Pai after a rollercoaster 3 hour drive from Chiang Mai, during which over 700 twists and turns left us sliding from side to side in our seats and one poor guy heaving at the edge of the road. Thankfully the breathtaking views of lush jungle and rolling hills provided me a much-welcomed distraction from the driver’s Formula-One style racing.
I’d heard much about this little town before I’d started my travels and throughout my time in Bangkok and Chiang Mai I’d met many other backpackers who openly proclaimed their love for it. With its laid-back atmosphere and hippie-vibes, Pai is all about relaxation and slowing the pace of life right down. Rows of vegan cafes advertising smoothies bowls and smashed avocado line the streets, speaking to the souls of many an elephant-pant-wearing dread-locked millennial, while tie-dye clothes and psychedelic bars attract hippies and party-goers alike, high on life and other substances. And if you’re after the more scenic type of trip, then the wild surroundings of rural northern Thailand will keep you exploring for days.
Plan for a couple of days, stay for a week (my numerous hostel extensions were proof of that)!
After starting my Thailand travels in the bustling cities of Bangkok and Chiang Mai, I’d grown accustomed to the endless sounds of beeping horns and shouts of “tuk tuk”. No such thing in Pai – those city sounds are a world away. Instead, a peaceful calm envelopes the town as people amble between the lines of open-air shops and scooters tootle their way down the dusty street. It’s a calm that was more than welcomed when I arrived with a fellow backpacker I’d met a few days earlier, until we realised that our hostel was a good half hour walk out of town and up a hill – a time almost doubled when wearing a backpack the size of a small child. Just as we strapped on our backpacks and set off in what we could only hope was the general direction of our hostel, a lonely tuk-tuk-come-truck (known as a “songthaew“) pulled up alongside us, carrying just one passenger who, by chance, happened to be heading to the same hostel as us. Relieved by this stroke of good luck, we hopped on in and left the Instagram cafes behind us.
Our luck was short-lived though when we found ourselves stranded in the middle of a rice field, 100 Baht down each and very much not at our hostel. It was very apt that at this stage I realised the good luck charm my Mum had sent me off on my travels with had fallen off somewhere along the journey. Just days before I had received a foreboding Buddhist fortune in Ayutthaya warning me that I couldn’t escape my bad luck – it seemed my fate was starting to reveal itself!
At least these views made up for our mishap…
Quickly pushing aside thoughts of having to spend the night sleeping amongst the crops, a quick scan of Google Maps put us back on course, and, hauling our backpacks back on, we traipsed a further 20 minutes uphill. The beer that welcomed us when we finally arrived at our hostel had never tasted so good!
After our unfortunate start, it was clear that public transport is not a thing in Pai, and after seeing the amount of people travelling around on scooters it seemed obvious we had no other choice but to do the same if we wanted to explore outside of the town borders. As the saying goes, if you can’t beat ’em, join ’em!
A quick internet search left me faced with numerous warnings against driving a scooter in Pai for the first time, what with its poor road conditions and unpredictable other newbie drivers. Driving accidents are prevalent throughout South East Asia, and the many bumped, bruised and bandaged backpackers have become part of the sights in Pai. However, with the winding country roads outside of town almost completely deserted during my visit in the rainy season of August, for me Pai was the perfect place to learn! After a short and shakey driving lesson in a quiet side street, a silent prayer that my wobbly driving wouldn’t get me pulled over by the police, and a telepathic apology to my parents, we were soon out on the open road to discover what all the fuss of Pai really was about!
There are many tour operators available in town who run group outings to all the famous sights about Pai, but for ultimate freedom and solitude then there really is no better way of exploring the Thai countryside than by scooter. Travelling at our own pace (in my case, extremely slowly), we strayed off down narrow side roads to see what hidden gems could be found at the other end, stopping to take as many photo breaks as we wanted, and trust me, there were a lot of to take. From sleepy remote villages to emerald rice paddies, we could truly immerse ourselves in the landscape of rural Thailand, bouncing over pot holes and dodging the occasional stray dog dozing in the middle of the road, or trying their best to nip our ankles as they chased after us.
After some very steep ascents and descents, which saw my well-used bike regularly chugging to a stop in protest, we arrived at our first waterfall of the day: Pam Bok Waterfall. Sweaty from the unrelenting Thai humidity, we hurried down to the narrow gorge, clambered high up on to the rocks, and leapt down into the cool water as the waterfall tumbled down behind us. We didn’t need to worry that we’d forgotten to bring towels – we’d soon dry off again on the open road!
We arrived at Mor Paeng Waterfall late in the afternoon just as the daily crowds were starting to disperse, leaving us to enjoy the natural pools all to ourselves. Hidden in the middle of a dense jungle, it was almost as if we’d been transported back in time to a Jurassic land. Fortunately the only scaly creature we came face-to-face with here was the occasional friendly lizard!
And as for stunning viewpoints, you are spoilt for choice in Pai. From clambering over the slippery rocks of Pai Canyon to enjoying a pot of tea at Yun Lai Viewpoint, you don’t have to go far for an amazing vista.
It’s true, Pai is a backpacker haven. What was once a hushed secret only known to a select few has today become a regular appearance on the must-do itinerary of Thailand. As a result, it has somewhat fallen victim to its success and almost all traditional Thai culture has been washed away by tourism and Western influences. For those looking for authenticity, Pai town might disappoint. But that’s not to say that Pai doesn’t have charm. It’s a place of two worlds, where locals mingle with backpackers in bars, avid party-goers relax alongside yoga-loving hippies in cafes, and slices of lasagne and pizza sit next to spring rolls and chicken satay in the night market.
But ultimately, Pai is so much more than just the town. It’s the natural beauty that surrounds the town. It’s the mountains, the rice fields, the waterfalls, the caves, the viewpoints. And it’s the peaceful freedom of reconnecting with nature as you adventure through the landscape of Northern Thailand at your own pace.
And for that, I think I can be forgiven for going against my promise to my parents.
Love, Beth x
And now a little bit about research and safety (because if you haven’t realised already, I’m not one to throw caution to the wind without checking the weather first…):
While driving a scooter in a foreign country is a great way to explore cheaply and with as much freedom as possible, it’s important to be careful and acknowledge the big risks that are involved. Here are my top tips to make sure that you’re well prepared if you do take the decision to rent a bike or scooter abroad:
- Use a trustworthy and reliable rental shop
Scooter scams are very common in Thailand, so be a step ahead of the game and do your research. Look at reviews online and talk to other backpackers who have already rented scooters. Get their opinions and see if they recommend the shop they rented from. Also, talk to your hostel. They may have their own scooters to rent or may know of a reliable shop they can recommend.
- Price comparison
You can rent bikes for as cheap as 100 Baht a day in Thailand, but be aware that price isn’t everything. Just because it’s cheap, it doesn’t mean it’s reliable. On the other end of the scale, don’t go with the first scooter shop you see, as there may be better offers further down the road. I often find middle ground is best.
- Take photos / videos of your bike before driving
One of the biggest scooter scams is when a shop tries to charge you a fortune for any damage on the bike no matter how small, even if it wasn’t caused by you. And as they usually take a deposit in the form of either your passport or a large sum of money, you’ll have no choice but to pay up. Before you set off driving, make sure you take photos of every scratch, dent and scrape already on your bike, so if you are blamed for something that was already there, then you have the proof. Even better if you do this in the bike shop in front of the owners so they know you’re not here to be played with.
- Practise first
If you’re new to driving a scooter, take it out for a test run first down a quiet street before you hit the main roads. Not only will this get you familiarised with the controls and manoeuvres, but it’s also an opportunity to test out the bike itself to make sure everything works as it should. If something doesn’t feel quite right, don’t be afraid to go back to the shop and ask for a different one.
- Drive carefully
I cannot emphasise this point enough. Accidents happen, and sometimes at the fault of no-one. There were 3 different accidents within my group when I was in Pai, 2 of which were caused by poor road conditions. The other though was caused by another backpacker driving on the wrong side of the road. Luckily everyone got away with only a few scrapes and bruises, but a lot of accidents involving tourists on scooters are caused by careless driving. It could be driving too quickly, taking risky manoeuvres, or simply being distracted and losing concentration. The rules in South East Asia may seem fairly lax and it can be tempting to lose all inhibition, but at risk of sounding like a Debbie Downer, you must remember you’re in a foreign country. If you do have a serious accident then the potential consequences can be much more difficult to deal with than at home. A lot of travel insurance doesn’t cover scooter hire for this very reason, so make sure to double check yours otherwise you could be paying a small fortune if you need help. Always wear a helmet, even if the locals don’t, and never ever ever drive under the influence of drugs or alcohol.
